[11/3, 9:18 AM] Aisha Gana: NATURAL HAIR CONCEPTUALIZATION
For you to have a successful natural hair journey, you must understand the meaning of natural hair and what it takes to go about it.
The term Natural Hair means having a relaxer free hair. That is, keeping your hair without the use of relaxer.
Before, the belief was that natural hair is only for ladies or women of certain religious sect or beliefs, so the fear of keeping natural hair because of what people will say at work, school etc. and many other reasons make people stay away from keeping their hair natural.
The natural hair movement now in Nigeria has grown & well accepted, people are no longer afraid to keep their hair natural.
Natural hair is a journey that needs full knowledge & enlightenment for it be a successful one.
Your natural hair can be as successful as the ones you see and admire if you are ready to invest the time and energy into learning to care for your natural hair properly.
Let's get started!
[11/3, 9:18 AM] Aisha Gana: Vital Things To Know:
1) Make Up Your Mind
This matters so much, you have to be sure you are ready to keep your hair natural, this will go a long way in helping you to embark on the natural hair journey and to stay natural no matter what challenges or discouragement you may get.
Both big chop and transitioning have what it takes to go about
2)Big chop or Transition?
You have to make a choice if to do a big chop (cutting it all off) or to transition (cutting it bit by bit).
Both options have their Do's and Don't, that is the conditions and care applicable to each.
3)Get your natural hair products
There are so many natural hair care products out there which you can get but they can be expensive.
That is why you will be taught how to make some of your natural hair products yourself.
This will not only save you the cost of buying expensive natural hair care products but it will also help you to be sure of what they are composed of.
[11/3, 9:18 AM] Aisha Gana: 8)Study your hair.
What works for someone's hair might not work for you!
Study your hair to know what works for you and what doesn't work.
9)Have a journal
In your journal or notebook, write down the things you are using, this will help you have a record of the things you are using or have used and from that you will be able to get what are beneficial to your hair & also to know the things to eliminate or remove.
10)Keep your hair clean, hydrated and attractive
To achieve a healthy and successful natural hair, ensure you keep it clean,
Moisturize as often as possible to avoid dry and dull hair.
[11/3, 9:18 AM] Aisha Gana: 4)Build a hair care regimen
In a natural hair journey, building a hair care regimen is very important.
It will help you to plan how to wash, deep condition, moisturize and some treatments you can implement every now and then without affecting your daily activities or work.
5)Avoid applying direct heat
Excessive direct heat can cause great damage
6)Protective and Maintenance Styles
You have to keep your natural hair in styles that will help protect and maintain your hair growth and length. There are so many protective styles you can do, examples are braiding, twisting, Bantu knots etc.
Also avoid tight hairstyles
7)Health, Nutrition, Vitamins and supplements
Ensure you take a well balanced diet, vitamins and supplements
These are essential for a healthy natural hair growth.
[11/3, 9:18 AM] Aisha Gana: Starting Your Natural Journey
There are two basic ways of going back to natural if you still have a relaxed hair.
They are:
1)Transitioning
2)Big chop
TRANSITIONING
This is when relaxed hair is allowed to grow
for a duration of time without relaxing it. It can take up to few months to a year depending on how long you want your new growth to be before trimming off the relaxed part gradually or cutting off bit by bit.
During the period of transitioning, there will be new growth together with straightened hair from the remains of relaxer. It is important to note that you will have to manage both relaxed hair and new growth at
the same time.
[11/3, 9:18 AM] Aisha Gana: Tips On Transitioning To Natural Hair:
1)Patience
Going natural with the choice of transitioning requires a lot of patience because it takes time and requires managing both relaxed hair and new growth at the same time.
2)Trimming or Cutting bit by bit
This can be done twice monthly or monthly.
3)Avoid direct use of heat
Tools like straightening combs, curling irons etc should be avoided.
[11/3, 9:18 AM] Aisha Gana: 4)Moisturize
This should be done as often as possible (like twice in a day) with water or water based products, and seal with oil or any other sealant.
5)Pre poo
This is the moisturizing treatment applied to your hair before you shampoo it.
This is important to help strengthens your hair and prevent breakage.
I will take you through some of the pre poo you can do later.
6) Shampoo in sections
This can be time consuming but it will help minimize breakage because as you continue to transition from relaxed to natural hair, the new growth becomes difficult to detangle while washing. Therefore putting your hair in sections will help you deal with every parts thoroughly.
[11/3, 9:18 AM] Aisha Gana: 7)Deep conditioning
This should be done on a weekly basis, it will help your hair flourish.
There so many deep conditioners you can get from stores, as the training goes on you will get to some of them and you will also be taught how to make your deep conditioner yourself (DIY deep conditioner)
8)Protein Treatment
Monthly, this should be done for replenishment of protein supply to hair.
9) Choose the right styles
During the period of transitioning, protective styles such as braids, weaves, wigs, Bantu knots, Twist outs, Flexi curls and other curl styles that does not require heat are good to help you blend the two different textures (straightened and new growth).
[11/3, 9:18 AM] Aisha Gana: BIG CHOP
This is cutting off all relaxed hair.
The fastest and instant means to start your natural hair journey is doing a big chop.
Big chop gives you the benefit of having a fresh
healthy start by allowing you to have one
consistent texture and the removal of all dead
ends.
Doing a big chop is really a great commitment because after cutting off all relaxed hair you will have to go about with a short Afro, but you can rock it using wigs, crochets and braids.
[11/3, 9:18 AM] Aisha Gana: STARTING YOUR NATURAL HAIR JOURNEY
THINGS NEEDED TO START
1) Widetooth Comb
2) Silk or Satin bonnet or cap
This is essential to protect your natural hair and retain length
Going to bed with something protecting you hair
is important to retaining moisture.
Cotton is very absorbent, thereby sucking the
much needed moisture and oils from you hair
overnight. Cotton is also very rough, even though
it may feel soft to the touch, its not so soft
when it comes to hair. When you are asleep and
move your head around, the cotton pillowcase
does not provide a smooth surface for the hair to
glide on like a silk or satin cap would, instead it
has the opposite effect. The roughness of the
fabric and excess friction catches the
hair causing, split ends, tangles, dryness and
frizz.
So remember to cover your natural hair with a satin bonnet before going to bed.
You can buy or make one for yourself.
[11/3, 9:18 AM] Aisha Gana: 3)Spray bottle
For a better application of water and some other moisturizers such as aloe vera juice which you make yourself, a spray bottle is essential.
[11/3, 9:18 AM] Aisha Gana: 6)Soft clean towel or an old clean T-shirt
For draining water out of your hair
7)Measuring spoons
For measurements
8)Bobby pins
This are essential for holding natural hair in place, for styling some natural hair styles and to achieve a smoother look when you are done packing your hair.
[11/3, 9:18 AM] Aisha Gana: 4) Plastic caps or nylon bags
You need this to cover your hair after your a deep conditioner or pre poo.
5) Mini bowl
This will be needed for mixing, usually for protein treatment and when making a deep conditioner on your own.
[11/3, 9:18 AM] Aisha Gana: PROBLEMS OF NATURAL HAIR (Real reasons why you are struggling with your natural hair)
The struggle in the natural hair journey is real and that is why it’s called a “journey.” Like anything else natural hair journey needs dedication, there is always a good and bad side of anything so really it’s not a struggle rather a challenge.
In transitioning and natural hair journey, there will definitely be some challenges that can be so frustrating if we choose to let ourselves be beaten down by them.
The appropiate way to look at these challenges is to take them as lessons or teachings you need to have in order to grow in your natural hair journey.
Also, you don't have to always listen and follow what people say about your natural hair, they can be misleading.
Embrace and enjoy every stage of your natural hair no matter what challenges you are having.
Learn to focus on the solution and not the problem so as not to get discouraged, thereby going back to relaxing your hair.
[11/3, 9:18 AM] Aisha Gana: Here are some common problems faced in the natural hair journey and solutions to it.
1)Knots And Tangles
When it comes to keeping natural hair you will experience tangles and knots, especially when your natural hair is is left unkept, before and after washing and when you don't properly loose braids or any other protective hairstyle. All these can make your hair twine together to form tangles which can lead to knots and eventually breakage.
Tangles and knots can be dealt with by proper detangling, care must be taken when detangling because rough detangling leads to pain, breakage and damage of ends which leads to reduction in hair length.
So, take your time and work through tangles and knots.
[11/3, 9:18 AM] Aisha Gana: d)Detangle carefully with your fingers first by starting from the ends before using a widetooth comb.
The reason why it is best to use your fingers first is because you can feel knots and tangles with your fingers and separate or pull them apart gently. After detangling with your fingers, the widetooth comb will be easier to use.
d)It is always a good idea to twist or braid the section back after you have finished detangling it, to prevent it from tangling up again!
e)Change your hairstyle or undo your hair before it tangles.
Keeping hairdos for a long time can make the hair tangle and knot.
[11/3, 9:18 AM] Aisha Gana: Solution:
a)Put hair in sections: Using your fingers divide your hair into convenient sections. If your hair is long, twist or braid it into four or more sections. If your hair is short, use hair clips otherwise known as butterfly clips instead. Either way, treat your hair as gently as possible. Although working with sectioned hair takes times, it is easier and reliable than doing everything once. It ensures the coverage of all parts of your hair. Detangling in sections also enables you to separate the hair you’ve already detangled from the hair that still needs to be detangled.
b)Unfold each section one after the other to work on it.
c) Damp and Condition Your Hair: Try wetting the unfolded part or section, don't over wet when wetting, you only need to make the hair damp or moist not too wet to avoid breakage.
Then apply a generous amount of a slippery conditioner or oil to your hair. The water and conditioner or oil will provide lubrication and slip to the hair, which will make it super easy to detangle.
[11/3, 9:18 AM] Aisha Gana: 2)Breakage
Breakage can be a very serious problem if not well handled and prevented. It can cause the hair not to grow longer than the length it has been stuck at for several years. Breakage is also another reason why many women have been led to believe that their hair grows slowly or that their hair can only grow to a certain length. In other words, you can call breakage an “Enemy of Progress”.
There are many reasons why breakage may occur and you can't completely stop breakage from occuring but there are some preventive measures that can be taken.
[11/3, 9:18 AM] Aisha Gana: Preventive measures or solution:
a)Moisturize as often as possible
Hair needs the perfect balance of moisture and protein to remain healthy or breakage free. Lack of moisture can make hair brittle and prone to breakage. Hydrated hair is not easily broken. If you notice popping of hair strands, that is a good sign that moisture is needed. Dry hair will break off, even if it’s in a protective style. However, when it is soft, bouncy and healthy, it is more resilient to breakage.
b)Detangle and Comb your hair when it is damp (moderately wet) not wet.
c)Pay extra attention to your ends.
Your ends are very important but the most fragile because it is the oldest part of your hair. Make sure you have your ends covered by applying product from ends to roots. This is especially important when using the LOC (Liquid Oil and Cream) method to moisturize hair.
d)Avoid heat styling
Heat styling makes hair strands weaker over time. It damages the hair cuticle thereby drying the hair out.
[11/3, 9:18 AM] Aisha Gana: e)Cover hair before going to bed
Your hair should be covered with a satin bonnet. Don't expose your hair to your cotton pillowcase instead you can go for a silk or satin pillowcase.
f)Dry with old soft T-shirt only
The use of towel for drying hair after washing can lead to tangle and breakage. Instead of Towel, use an old soft T-shirt it is also absorbent.
g)Nutrition
To keep your hair healthy, it is important to consume the essential nutrients that it needs for healthy growth. A well balanced diet is required to avoid breakage.
h)Don't do tight hairstyles
Tying your hair up all the time can cause it to be weak at the parts where it is secured.
These weakened parts of your hair are more likely to break over time.
[11/3, 9:18 AM] Aisha Gana: I)Use of Oils
j)Deep conditioning
This helps to strengthen your natural hair.
k)Lack of protein: The major cause of breakage is lack of protein. To resolve this do a protein treatment with a protein conditioner (you can use our hair mask with egg) or prepare a homemade conditioner with ingredients such as egg, mayonnaise and honey. Apply the mixture and cover for at least 30mins before shampooing. This should be done once a month. Do this once every three months or as needed to prevent breakage.
[11/3, 9:18 AM] Aisha Gana: 3)Excessive Shedding
Shedding actually is not a problem as it is a natural process that happens during the 4 stages of hair growth. Naturally we shed about 50-100 hair follicles daily; however, shedding becomes a problem when it is excessive or too much. For instance, if you notice that chunks of your hair is falling off than normal, then it would be in your best interest to go see your medical physician. Excessive hair shedding could be a sign of a medical symptom or postpartum(after giving birth).
Postpartum shedding: Pregnancy usually thickens the hair and prevents normal shedding. After giving birth, the hair that you were supposed to shed throughout your pregnancy comes falling which can be frustrating. Always remember that this is normal and not much can be done to prevent it. Try to maintain a good and simple regimen without adding too much stress on the hair. You may massage your scalp with oil such as Castor oil, jojoba oil or coconut oil at least 3 times a week to help minimize the effect and promote growth.
[11/3, 9:18 AM] Aisha Gana: 4)Shrinkage
Shrinkage comes along with the natural hair journey. It is the difference between what your hair looks like when it is wet and gently stretched to its maximum length and what it looks like when it is dry.
If you are struggling with shrinkage, I want you to know that it is normal and not always bad; it is a sign that your hair is healthy and full of elasticity. Fighting shrinkage can really damage your hair especially if too much heat is involved or too much tension is placed on the hair and scalp.
However, I know that it can be an annoying problem, so here are a few tips to help minimize shrinkage.
•Threading
•Bantu knots
•Use of straw set, flexi rod set and roller set
•Shampoo hair in braids and twists
•Use of sheabutter
[11/3, 9:18 AM] Aisha Gana: To maintain your natural hair after fixing, moisturize using a spray bottle and ensure you lift the weavon so that you can actually moisturize your hair and not the weavon alone
[11/3, 9:18 AM] Aisha Gana: Some Common Natural Hair Acronyms And Terms.
• BC-Big chopped (when you cut off the chemically relaxed hair to return natural).
• TWA-Teeny Weeny Afro (Hair length or stage after big chop).
• DIY-Do It Yourself (Homemade treatment or do protective style yourself).
• EO-Essential Oils. These are concentrated oils that must be diluted with carrier oils before use. Examples are rosemary oil, lavender oil, orange oil, lemon oil, etc.
• CO- Carrier oils. These are oils that are used to dilute essential oils. They can also be used on their own. Examples are coconut oil, olive
oil, avocado oil, sunflower oil, etc.
[11/3, 9:18 AM] Aisha Gana: • JBCO-Jamaican Black Castor Oil. This is a special oil that is good for adding thickness and shine to the natural hair.
• LOC- Liquid, Oil and Cream. This is a method for moisturizing the natural hair. LOC stands for liquid, oil and cream. A liquid, preferably water is sprayed on the hair first, an oil is then added to coat the hair strands to prevent moisture from leaving the strands. Lastly, a cream or butter is used to finally coat or seal the strands to ensure that no moisture leaves the hair at all.
• LCO-Liquid, Cream and Oil. It is a moisturizing method like the LOC method. The only difference is that the cream is used before the oil in this case.
[11/3, 9:18 AM] Aisha Gana: • EVCO-Extra Virgin Coconut Oil
• EVOO-Extra Virgin Olive Oil
• ACV-Apple Cider Vinegar. This is used for clarifying natural hair. It also helps natural hair to be shiny.
• Humectants-They attract water vapour or moisture from the atmosphere into the hair. Common humectants are honey and vegetable glycerin. Honey can be used as a pre-poo or conditioning treatment. Vegetable glycerin can be added to water in your spray bottle, it is a good moisturizer.
[11/3, 9:18 AM] Aisha Gana: • PS- Protective Styles.This is any hair style that hides the natural hair and keeps the ends of the hair covered. Protectives styles can be used to retain the length of the hair, because there will be no combing or manipulation while the protective style is in. Examples are weaves, kinky twists, braids, crochet etc.
• TO- Twist out
• Clarify– To remove build-up in hair strands using a clarifying shampoo or conditioner, ACV, Baking Soda etc.
• Co-wash or CW- When you wash with only conditioner without shampoo.
• Sham-wash or Poo- When you wash with shampoo.
• Pre-Poo– A method of applying either oils or conditioning the hair before washing with shampoo.
[11/3, 9:18 AM] Aisha Gana: • DC- Deep conditioning. A deep conditioner deeply conditions the hair preventing breakage and giving strength to the hair.
• Sealing- This is the process of locking in added moisture in the hair with a cream or oil.
• W 'n' G-Wash and Go. This is a method of washing the hair either by deep conditioning or co-washing and applying a styling gel then letting it air dry and off you go.
[11/3, 9:18 AM] Aisha Gana: • W 'n' G-Wash and Go. This is a method of washing the hair either by deep conditioning or co-washing and applying a styling gel then letting it air dry and off you go.
• Product Junkie– A person who enjoys buying new products because of what it promises or heard about it.
• Pineappling– A sleep technique in which the hair is packed in form of an updo so as to preserve curls.
• Plopping– The use of a old clean T-shirt to dry the hair.
[11/3, 9:18 AM] Aisha Gana: • Braid Out- A protective hair style that deals with braiding the hair a night before and take out the braids in the morning.
• Banding- This is a method of stretching the hair using bands.
• 1/2abc/3abc/4abc- Hair curl types under the hair typing system.
• Bagging or Greenhouse Effect Method(GHE)- This is a process in which you coat your hair with a leave in conditioner or just water at night and cover with a shower cap or plastic bag overnight so that the heat from your body steams the hair making it super moisturized.
[11/3, 9:18 AM] Aisha Gana: • Holy Grail- Hair products that have been tested and true.
HAIR LENGTH ACRONYMS
*APL: Arm pit length
*BSL: Bra strap length
*CBL: collar bone length
*MBL: Mid back length
*SL: Shoulder length
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